Senate Takes Action Against Fast Fashion: Shein Targeted in New Legislation

One year after its adoption by the National Assembly, the senators unanimously approved this consensual text supported by the government, which aims to define “ultra-express” fashion companies based on their environmental impact, subject them to obligations, and penalize the most polluting ones. Deputies and senators will still need to agree on a joint text before the reform can be implemented.

Following this decision, Quentin Ruffat, the spokesperson for Shein in France, immediately responded, insisting that “Shein is not a fast fashion company.” “Our business model is based on innovation and production on demand. It allows production solely of what our customers buy – which reduces overproduction and unsold items while maintaining affordable prices,” he stressed. He added: “We are ready to work with French industry players and public officials to advance this ambition — and demonstrate how our model can contribute to a more sustainable and inclusive fashion future in France.“

Key fashion industry players in France have welcomed the bill as “ambitious,” urging senators “not to succumb to Shein’s infernal lobbying” attempting to “sabotage” the bill, according to a statement sent Tuesday to AFP, also signed by European MP Raphaël Glucksmann, Senator Yannick Jadot, and the national secretary of the Ecologists, Marine Tondelier.

Penalties for polluting companies, prohibited advertising, obligations for platforms, sanctions for influencers… The proposed law introduces a range of tools to limit this rapidly expanding phenomenon. The Chinese platform Shein thus fits the definition of “ultra-express fashion,” a term retained by the senators in the law. The players covered by this definition will have obligations, such as educating consumers about the “environmental impact” of their clothing. Shein will thus have to comply with “eco-contributions” reinforced in the law, based on a bonus-malus system, with a penalty that will reach at least 10 euros per item by 2030.

Another key measure provided by the text is the total ban on advertising for ultra-ephemeral fashion, with a set of sanctions dedicated to influencers who would want to promote it. However, the constitutionality of this measure is under scrutiny. Furthermore, the Senate also adopted an unexpected measure: the introduction of a tax on small parcels delivered by companies based outside the European Union, ranging from two to four euros. This aims to broaden the scope by targeting another Asian online commerce giant, Temu. However, this measure might be removed in the subsequent parliamentary shuttle, to leave the matter to Europe, where the subject is currently under negotiation.

Following this adoption in the Senate, a joint committee (CMP) comprising senators and deputies is expected to be convened at the start of the next session. They will be tasked with finalizing a common text, a prerequisite for the definitive adoption of this anti-“fast fashion” law.

(with AFP)