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The fashion brand Naf Naf faces a dire situation as it enters its third bankruptcy process in just five years, amidst ongoing challenges in the mid-range ready-to-wear sector exacerbated by the pandemic.
For Naf Naf, “the disaster scenario repeats itself.” The CFDT union sounded the alarm this Wednesday, May 21, during an extraordinary social and economic committee (CSE) meeting where staff representatives were informed of the brand’s upcoming court-mandated reorganization in Bobigny. This marks the third time since its 1973 founding by Patrick and Gérard Pariente, putting around 700 employees at risk. Despite being acquired in 2024 by Turkish group Migiboy Tekstil, which invested over 1.5 million euros in the brand and committed to saving 90% of the jobs, the mid-range women’s clothing retailer faces severe challenges.
An Industry in Decline with Sales Down an Average of 10% Since 2019
Brands like Gap France, Pimkie, and IKKS have been struggling in recent years. Naf Naf’s announcement comes less than a month after another setback for the industry: the Jennyfer brand declared on April 30 its request for judicial liquidation. Is 2025 another bleak year for mid-range ready-to-wear? Although the clothing and textile sector’s overall figures are stable in early 2025, sales in February were only down 0.7% compared to February 2024, according to the French Fashion Institute (IFM).
However, the situation has significantly worsened for the industry over the past five years. February 2025 revenue was 9.9% lower than that of February 2019, according to the IFM Panel. The pandemic years notably imposed temporary store closures during lockdown periods. Naf Naf first filed for bankruptcy in 2020. Since then, the apparel sector has suffered from declining sales, with each year seeing new brands shut down or accumulate difficulties, particularly in the mid-range.
Mid-Range Apparel Brands Face Competition from Chinese Ultra-Fast Fashion Platforms
2022 saw the liquidation of Camaïeu. 2023 witnessed the liquidation of San Marina, whose brand was later acquired by Chaussea. That same year, in September, Naf Naf’s then-owner, the Turkish group SY International, had to declare the company insolvent. This led to a restructuring process and the loss of 88 jobs, following store closures. The brand Don’t Call Me Jennyfer also underwent restructuring in June. In summary, a dire year for the industry, as reported by Challenges.
The financial fallout of the pandemic, coupled with inflation, has curbed French consumer spending and, consequently, sales for brands. Although inflation has slowed – +2% in 2024 compared to +4.9% in 2023 according to INSEE – it contributes to rising prices in the mid-range. Moreover, these brands face competition from very low-priced products from Chinese fast fashion platforms, such as Shein and Temu.
“We are witnessing a profound transformation in the fashion market. Price disparities are redefining this market. Yet, mid-range is now three times more expensive than ultra-fast fashion, leading to the disappearance of many brands,” analyzed Gildas Minvielle, director of the Economic Observatory of the IFM, during the 3rd annual review on February 13, 2025. “Today, this gap is widening, posing a new challenge for brands.”
The revival will hinge on a value proposition that meets consumer expectations
Thus, 2024 confirmed a deep-rooted trend: the rise of online shopping. Online sales grew by 1.7% compared to 2023 and by 9.2% compared to 2019, accounting for 23% of fashion purchases. How then can these affordable French brands defend themselves against the ephemeral fashion that increasingly nibbles at their market share? For Gildas Minvielle, “recovery will come through a return to quality, we must get back to a value-for-money proposition that meets consumer expectations.”
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Ready-to-wear brands might also hope for support from industry unions and public authorities. In April, the French Federation of Women’s Ready-to-Wear launched a ‘Next’ campaign against Ultra-Fast Fashion, to expose hidden truths of this sector. Discussions to regulate the influx of millions of Chinese parcels into France are ongoing between ministries.
So far, several bankrupt apparel brands have found buyers. For instance, Camaïeu was acquired by Celio in August 2024. It remains to be seen if Naf Naf will need to take this step. The brand for “young actives” may yet be saved.
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